Shoe and method of making the same



Sept. 10, 1940. AYERS 2,214,603

r SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Fild May 14. 1936 2,Sheets-She e1 1 p 1 I F. L. AYERS 7 2,214,603

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING. THE SAME Filed May 14-, 1936' 2.She ets-S hee\ 2 Patented Sept. 10, 1940 UNITED STATES snou AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Fred L. Ayers, Water-town, Mass assignor of onehalf Newton Elkin Application May 14, 1936, Serial No. 79,681

15 Claims.

This invention relates to shoes and to their manufacture.

One object of the invention is to makea shoe which may, if desired, simulate in appearance a single-soled shoe, such as a turn, and yet which may be actually of the two-sole type. when no innersole is employed, the shoeis a single sole shoe with the upper so securely locked to the sole that the use of cement for securing the sole in position is entirely practicable. The shoe, may, if desired, simulate in appearance a welt shoe, and, if desired, be given an extension edge sole which may receive ornamentation simulating welt stitching, stitch separating, or wheeling. The shoe is provided with an outer sole member, the upper being lasted in and secured to a rib element'which may or may not be carried by an innersole, the sole member being formed to engage and interlock with the upper and rib and to cover and conceal the means by which the upper sole is preferably secured as by cement, but the parts are so formed that no roughing operation to cause proper adhesion of the cement to any of the parts is commonly necessary.

A further object is toprovide a shoe having the desirable interlock between the sole member and the lasted shoe hereinbefore described, but which when desired will permit the ready re-soling of the shoe in a manner similar to that commonly employed with welt shoes, even though the interlocking securement is produced by cement. This is done by forming the sole member in two parts secured together by stitching, the inner or upper one of these parts being interlocked with and cementedto the lasted shoe, and the outer of these parts being a tread member. After cuttingthe securing stitches the old tread portion of the sole may be pulled off and a new one applied and secured as by outer sole stitching.

This application is a continuation in part of my applications Serial No. 88,892, filed March 1, 1935, and Serial No. 76,387, filed April 25, 1936, for Shoe and method of making the same.

For a more complete understanding of this invention, reference may-be had to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a fragmentary top plan of a shoe outer sole prepared for use in a shoe made according to this invention.

Figure 2 is a detail section to a larger scale on line 2-2 of Figure 1.

Figures 3, 4 and 5 are fragmentary section similar to Figure 2, but showing various forms cf composite sole construction.

Figure 6 is a view similar to Figure 4, but showing the parts secured together.

Figure 7 is a detail section through the edge portion of the forepart of a lasted shoe before it is trimmed.

Figure 8 is a detail section of the same showing the shoe trimmed and otherwise prepared for the attachment of the outer sole which is shown in dotted outline.

Figures 9 and 10 are detail sections similar to corresponding parts in Figures '7 and 8, respectively, but showing a modification.

Figure 11 is a fragmentary perspective showing a portion of the forepart of the innersole of a lasted shoe partly removed.

Figure 12 is a fragmentary exploded perspective of an outer sole showing a further modification.

Figure 13 is a detail section showing the outer sole applied and pressed to a lasted shoe and showing a further modification.

Figures 14 and 15 are fragmentary views similar to Figure 8, but showing modified construetions.

Figures 16 and 17 are fragmentary perspectives of the toe portions of lasted shoes of the construction shown in either Figure 14 or 15 and showing different constructions for, increasing adhesion of the outer sole thereto.

Figure 18 is a fragmentary transverse section through the forepart of an innersole of a different construction. from that shown in Figure 14.

Figure 19 is a fragmentary transverse section of the lasted shoe showing the innersole of Figure l8.

Figures 20 and 21 are detail sections showing two methods of trimming the lasted shoe of Figure 19, and showing dotted the partial outline of an outer sole for cooperation therewith.

Figures 22, 23 and 24 are views similar to Figure 18, but showing modified constructions.

Referring first to Figures 1 and 2, at l is shown a sole member having its outer margin on its top face cut away to present an inwardly facing integral lip 2. This lip may extend throughout the shank and forepart of the sole, or entirely around the sole including the heel, or, if desired, it may terminate at the widest portions of the forepart of the sole as at the lines a and b for a purpose which will later appear. It will also be noted that the top face of the margin of the sole memher is shown so formed that the total thickness of the sole member about its margin, including the inturned lip 2, does not exceed the thickness of the sole inwardly of the cut away portion 3 for a purpose which will also later appear. Instead of forming the lip portion 2 integral with the remainder of the sole member, it may be formed separately therefrom. For example, as shown in Figure 3, the outer edge portion of the sole member In is beveled 01f as at H for securement to the bevel face of a strip [2, which comprises a base I3 and an integral inwardly facing lip M. In place of forming the base and lip integral, they may be formed separately. For example, in Figure 4, the base I6 is shown as of textile fabric such as canvas with a strip l1 suitably secured along its outer margin. The strip l1 forms the inwardly extending lip overlying the base I6 on one side. This fabric preferably terminates somewhat inwardly of the outer edge of the strip II in order that when the canvas l6 and the part I! are secured to the sole member,

as by a line of stitching IS, the parts are so crowded together that the fabric edge does not show along the edge of the sole. In any case the U as by a line of stitching at 22.

base should extend inwardly to an extent sufficient to cover the cement-coated portion of the lasted shoe so that the tread portion of the sole shall be free from cemented attachment.

In Figure 5 still another method is shown in which the .outer edge of the fabric strip I6 is inserted into a slit in the strip "3 so that when these are secured as by the line of stitching to the sole member In, the outer edge of the fabric is fully concealed.

In making the shoe the upper is pulled over a last as at 20 in Figure 7, and is secured at its outer edge to a portion of a reinforcing strip 2| This element 2| may be temporarily secured in any suitable way to the lower face of the last 20 about its margin. As shown in this figure, a thin strip 23 is secured on the outer face of the shoe upper, and after the upper has been trimmed, the upper edge of this strip 23 is turned outwardly, as

shown at 24 in Figure 8, to form an outward projection from the lasted shoe which may be inserted beneath the in-turne'd lip of the outer sole and cemented in position. It should be understood, of course, that this in-turned-outer sole lip may be formed either integral or separate from the main body of the sole member, as shown, for example, in Figures 2 to 6. This portion 24 underlying the inwardly extending lip of the outer sole furnishes an interlock between the lasted shoe and the sole member, which not only adds to the :bond between these parts, but also prevents those mating parts of the trimmed edges of the upper materials and the strip 2|, which are cemented to the beveled mating portion of the outer sole, from contact with foreign material entering the crease between the top face of the sole member and the upper which might tend to destroy the bond between these parts. The part of the outer sole inwardly of the beveled margins 3 or H acts as a filler inwardly of the upper securing rib.

Another method of forming the outwardly extending portion of the reinforcing strip element to which the upper is secured is illustrated in Figures 9 and 10, wherein the stitching at 25 which secures these parts together is made of such size and with the enchainment of the chain stitching outwardly presented that it may be compacted into an outwardly projecting fin or rib as 26 in Figure 10 for interlocking engagement beneath the outer sole lip.

Instead of the element to which the upper margins are secured being secured directly to the last, it may constitute a portion of an innersole,, as shown, for example, in Figure 14, where 21 indicates the innersole provided with a reinforcing fabric 28 on its lower face. Here, also, instead of employing the stitching by which the upper margins are secured, or a separate piece, as shown in Figures '7 and 8, the margins of the upper materials themselves may be outwardly turned as at 29 to form the outwardly extending part of the lasted shoe for interlocking engagement beneath the outer sole lip..

In Figure 15 the upper materials are shown as forming this outwardly extending lip, but no innersole is shown, the reinforcing element to which the upper materials are secured being temporarily secured to the last. Of course, other methods of forming an outwardly extending part on the lasted shoe for interlocking engagement with the outer sole may be employed. In Figure 11 the strip to which the upper is secured is shown as carried by a thin innersole member 30, the central portion of which may be cut out and removed after the lasting has been effected, this central portion being shown at 3| as partially pulled away. Where no innersole is present in the completed shoe, the shoe sole is of great flexibility.

Still another method of forming the lip on the outersole is shown in Figure 12 in which the lip portion only as at 3 5 is formed separate from the sole member l0 and it is shown as provided with ornamental stitching 36 which would give the appearance of a welt of a welt shoe when the shoe is completed without the objection of the stitch showing on the bottom of the shoe sole. This strip 35 may be cemented or otherwise secured to the sole member ID and it is desirable to pre-coat the under side of the lip with pyroxylin cement to stiffen it"and to facilitate cement bonding with the lasted shoe.

In Figure 13 still another method of forming the lip on the outer sole is illustrated in which a strip 40 is secured to the outer margin of the outer sole, its upper margin which extends above the upper face of the outer sole being turned inwardly and cemented to form the desired lip beneath which the interlocking portions of the lasted shoe may be inserted. After the parts have been so secured, the strip may be trimmed off as on the line c-d, leaving only the top portion in position and secured-by the cement to the outer sole as well as to the lasted portionof the shoe, or it may be left on for ornamentation or protection.

In order to facilitate the securement of the outer sole and lasted shoe together, the outer sole lip may terminate as at the lines a and b, as previously described, whereupon after the parts have been coated with the cement, the lasted shoe may have its outwardly projecting lip portion engaged beneath the lip on the outer sole and then by pressing the lasted shoe forwardly relative to the outer sole, ghe parts may "be firmly interlocked. Where the lip on the outer sole is extended in the shank portion'or around the heel of the shoe, it may be found necessary to raise the lip from the shank portion in order to permit the parts to be assembled. The lip may return to the normal position just before pressure is applied to secure the sole in position.

When the outer sole lip is formed separate from the tread portion of the outer sole, it is preferable to secure it to the tread portion before engaging and securing it to the lasted shoe, 7

cured by the ordinary outer sole stitching as is done with welt shoes.

- In some instances it may be found that the upper materials do not take cement very satisfactorily and in Figures 16 and 17 have been illustrated two constructions for increasing such adhesion. In Figure 16, the outwardlyturned margin may be pinked or otherwise cut to permit the cement to enter so that when it is hard it acts as integral protuberances filling the serrations of the pinkededge and directly connecting the lip to the upper face of the outer sole and thus obtaining a better grip thereon. In Figure 17 a similar result is secured by providing upper materials, the cement being pressed through these perforations when soft and formto secure the parts firmly together when hardened.

In Figures 18 to 23 lasted shoe constructions wherein the upper materials may be secured readily by the usual stitch-down machines are illustrated. Referring first to Figure 18, the innersole is shown as provided with a marginal feather about its lower face, there being a shoulder 5| thereabove. This shoulder affords support for the upper materials shown at 52 in wardly turned margins overlying the feather 50, and being secured in position as by stitching 53.-

- This stitching maybe placed by a usual stitching machine employed in the making of stitch-down shoes, such machines commonly so placing the stitches as to leave the enchainment thereof, the stitches being chain stitch, on the lower face of the innersole as at 54. The attachment could be by staples, if desired. a This securing of the upper materials to the innersole may leave the projecting margins of the feather and the upper materials substantially in or parallel to the plane of the remainder of the innersole as shown in Figure 20, or these margins may be deflected downwardly, as indicated by dotted lines in Figure 21, depending somewhat on the relative stiffness of the upper materials and the innersole'feather. Where the margins remain substantially in the plane of the innersole inwardly of the feather, they are then trimmed off as shown in Figure 20 as at 55 along the bevel to leave an outwardly extending marginal portion or rim 56 of tapered form. This portion 55 may then be inserted beneath the inwardly extending lip of. the outer sole shown in dotted lines at 51 in Figure 20, this marginallip being formed by any of the methods previously described herein. It should be noted, however, that since the lower face of the innersole is substantially on the level of the lower face of the extension 55, the outer sole lip 51 projects above the upper face of the outer sole at 58, so that the lip 51 maybe brought into interlocking relation with the lip 56. Where the outer margins of the upper materials and innersole lip are deflected downwardly, the trim-'- ming may be effected as at 60 in Figure 21 on the lowerfaces of these members so as to bring them into substantial alinement with the lower other figures of the drawings where the a row of perforations at 45 inthis margin of the.

ingintegral cement rivet-like elements which act' Figure 19, these upper materials having out- .parts comprising a face of the innersole inwardly thereof or below such alinement, if desired. In this case most of the trimming is on the upper margin being extended further than the lip from the line of stitching. Of course these innersole feather, the

parts might be trimmed on both faces, if desired.

In any case, however, the final shape of the outwardly extending portion of the lasted shoe is substantially the same and may be generally complemental to the space between the inwardly extending tapered outer sole lip and the top face of the outer sole. With the lasted shoe construction shown in Figures 19 to 21, inclusive, the top of 'the outersole lip is higher than the top face of the outersole toward the central portion of the shoe, while in the construction shown in wardly extending portion is on the lower face of the lasted shoe, the top face of the outersole lip may be at least as low as the central portion of the outersole, this central portion then acting as an integral filler positioned inwardly of the lip on the lasted shoe.

Instead of forming the feather 50 as an integral portion of the innersole, it may be formed as a separate marginal piece, as shown in Figure 22 at 62; as a narrow strip, and in Figure 23 at 63 as a layer extending entirely across and forming a reinforcement for the innersole. It may be made of leather, canvas, or other suitable material. This marginal piece may be secured as by cementing or otherwise to the lower face of the innersole, Figure 24 showing edge stitching 64 as used for this purpose. The outer edge of the upper layer then forms the shoulder against which the upper materials engage similar to the shoulder 5| shown in Figures 18 to 21.

It will be noted that in all of the constructions illustrated, the top face of the outersole lip or J the strip carrying this lip is substantially flat .ing from the spirit or scope of this invention as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A shoe having a two-part sole, one of said tread portion and the other outpart comprising a marginal strip secured by fastening elements to said tread portion, said mar-- ginal strip comprising a base portion and a lip extending inwardly to a less extent than said base portion, said shoe having means presenting an outwardly extending element secured beneath said lip and overlying said base portion.

2. A shoe having a two-part sole, one of said parts comprising a tread portion and the other part comprising a marginal strip secured by fastening elements to said tread portion, said marginal strip comprising a base portion and a lip extending inwardly .to a less extent than said base portion, said shoe having meanspresenting anoutwardly extending element secured beneath said lip and overlying said base portion, said sole being secured to the shoe by cement engaging base portion and a lip extending inwardly to a less extent than said base portion, said shoe having means comprising upper materials presenting 'an outwardly extending element secured beneath said lip and overlying said base portion.

4. A shoe having a two-part sole, one of said parts comprising a tread portion and the other part comprising a marginal strip stitched to said tread portion, said marginal strip comprising a base portion and a lip extending inwardly to a less extent than said base portion, said shoe having means comprising upper materials presenting an outwardly extending element secured beneath said lip and overlying said base portion, the stitching securing said strip to said tread portion being positioned outwardly of the' upper on the top face of said sole.

5. A shoe having a two-part sole, one of said parts comprising a tread portion and the other part comprising a marginal strip stitched to said tread portion, said marginal strip presenting an inwardly extending marginal lip of less than the full width of said strip, said shoe having means presenting an outwardly extending element secured beneath said lip and projecting over a portion of said marginal strip, the stitching secur ing said strip to said tread portion being posh tioned outwardly of the upper on the top face of said sole.

6. A, shoe having a two-part sole, one of said parts comprising a tread portion and the other part comprising a marginal strip stitched to said tread portion, said marginal strip presenting an inwardly extending marginal lip of less than the full width of said strip, said shoe having means comprising upper materials presenting an outwardly extending element secured beneath said lip and projecting over a portion of said marginal strip, the stitching securing said strip to said tread portion being positioned outwardly of the upper on the top face of said sole.

'7. An outer sole comprising a tread portion having a thin marginal portion and a marginal strip secured to said thin portion, said strip comprising a base engaging said thin portion and presenting an inwardly extending marginal lip along the outer edge of said base, the total thickness of said sole at its margin including said lip not exceeding the thickness of said sole inwardly of said strip.

8. A shoe comprising upper materials presenting an outwardly turned marginal portion cemented beneath an inturned marginal lip of a sole portion, said marginal portion presenting openings through which said cement extends.

9. A shoe having a sole provided with an inwardly extending marginal lip, upper materials and a reinforcing member to which the marginal portions of said upper materials are stitched, said stitching outwardly of said materials being shaped to present an outwardly extending element underlying said lip and being secured in position.

10. The method which comprises lasting and stitching the margins of a shoe upper to an element positioned at the sole face of the last about its margin, shaping the stitching threads on the outer face of said element into an outwardly projecting flange, securing a sole member to the lasted shoe with an inwardly directed lip about the margin overlying said flange, and thereafter removing the last.

11. The method which comprises lasting a shoe and securing the margins of the upper to an innersole to leave a projecting edge portion, securing to the edge of an outer sole a face of a strip extending above the upper face of said outer sole, securing said outer sole to the lasted shoe with said'extending strip portion in-turned over said projecting edge portion, and then trimming oif that portion of said strip beyond the outer edge of said innersole.

12. The method of making a shoe, which comprises lasting and securing the out-turned margins of upper materials to an outwardly extending marginal feather about the lower face of an innersole to form with said feather an outwardly extending rim, trimming said rim to tapered form, and inserting and cementing said rim beneath an inwardly extending lip carried on the upper face of an outer sole. I

13. A shoe having a sole, one part of which \comprises a tread portion and another part of which comprisesa marginal strip, said strip comprising a base portion secured over a portion only of its width to said tread portion, and a lip extending inwardly to a less extent than said base portion carried by said base portion, said shoe having means presenting an outwardly extending element secured beneath said lip and overlying said base .portion, said sole being secured to the shoe by cement engaging only the marginal strip part of said sole.

14. A shoe having an innersole member. upper materials lasted over and secured to said member by a line of stitching, and having a margin below said line of stitching outwardly turned, the inseam portion of the shoe being trimmed to present an outwardly projecting fin, a locking strip comprising a baseportion underlying said fin and an upwardly extending marginal portion overlying said fin, said strip being cemented to said inseam portion and covering the outer face of said line of stitching, and an outersole member cemented to the lower face of said base portion.

15. A shoe having an innersole member, upper materials lasted over and secured to said member by a line of stitching, and having its margin below said line of stitching outwardly turned, the inseam portion of the shoe being trimmed to present an outwardly projecting tapered fin, a locking strip comprising a base portion underlying said finand an upwardly extending marginal portion having an inner inclined wall mating the taper of said fin overlying said fln, said strip being cemented to said inseam portion and covering the outer face of said line of stitching, and an outersole member cemented to the lower face of said base portion.

FRED L. AYERS. 

